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  Bites: Cheese By Hand, Feeling French-y, Paul Simon

  http://mariefromage.typepad.com/fromageforyou/2008/05/bites-...
  149 days ago in Marie Fromage · Authority: 2

  Cheese By Hand Well folks, my cheese obsession has reached new heights. I have learned how to MAKE MY OWN CHEESE! You heard right – in the comfort of my New York City apartment’s toy kitchen, I have been turning out batches of fresh, luscious ricotta and meltingly tender mozzarella. And I don’t possess any special cheesy powers! I came across Ricki’s Cheese Making kit on a recent visit to Murray’s Cheese shop. I thought it would be a fun weekend project and discovered that, in under an hour, I could make my own curds. It’s pretty easy, but I’ll admit it took a little trial-and-error to get it right. For the first try, my pal Zero and I attempted to make mozzarella and ended-up with a small chewy knot of a cheese-like substance. Edible, but not exactly what we had in mind. Turns out we were using the wrong type of milk (avoid the ubiquitous “ultra pasteurized” variety. Even with organic brands, if you buy it in any major grocery store it’s ultra pasteurized). I had beautiful results with Sky Top Farms whole milk that is lightly pasteurized and not homogenized; there’s even a layer of cream at the top of the milk jug for added lushness (available at Whole Foods). It was delish and the homemade mozzarella of my dreams! Feeling French-y Benoit Benoit is the newest restaurant from chef Alain Ducasse, a replica of the famous 1912 bistro of the same name in Paris, now in the old La Côte Basque space. It appears to attract some of the old La Côte Basque crowd, a classy mix of monied New Yorkers ranging in age from sleek young things to those who can recall the days when Jackie O would dine in their midst. In anticipation of satisfying the old LCB ghosts, they carried over a recipe from the famed LCB chef, Jean-Jacques Rachou (“Cassoulet de J.J. Rachou”). And it was reported in the NY Times today that J.J. Rachou is actually still working there, making the quenelles de brochet and cassoulet himself, which is very exciting! They are doing it up old-school French, which seems many people are still craving. But don’t feel as if you can’t join the party; prices for this feast are very reasonable. Here you can tuck in to expertly rendered classics - escargot, pan roasted garlic and rosemary chicken for two, pâté en croûte, pike quenelles de brochet, lamb chops, cassoulet, duck à l’orange, onion soup gratinée, potatoes gratin Dauphinois, chocolate soufflé…you get the picture. You can even get veal tongue with all the fixings when you get that special craving! Worth going back? Oui, for a classy-yet-casual breakfast, lunch and dinner that’s a homage to culinary temples of the past without seeming stuffy. It will delight you, your boss, your gay best friend, and your wealthy great aunt who longs for her flambéed La Côte Basque ruby and emerald occasions. Benoit: 60 W. 55th St. bet. 5th & 6th Aves. (Midtown West): 646-943-7373 Pigalle Midtown in the 40s is an area I generally try to avoid, a tourist and traffic-choked section with which I’m on close, intimate terms because I lived there for 12 years (thank heavens I moved!) But it IS the theater district, so when visiting friends and family are looking for a good place to eat in the neighborhood, I try to steer them away from the tourist traps and point them towards the good spots. Pigalle usually fits the bill as a reasonably priced spot that serves surprisingly yummy, authentic and satisfying French brasserie fare such as country pate, Quiche Lorraine, mussels mariniere, beef bourguignon, croque monsieur, and my all-time favorite silky French treat, crème brulee. The only real drawback is the largely tourist clientele, which makes it deeply uncool for most New Yorkers. But there is usually room at the bar where you can sit and direct your gaze towards the bottles of absinthe lining the shelves, flirt with the handsome bartender and pretend you’re in Paris. Worth going back? Absolutely, if I am meeting people catching a show in the area and we can’t get a reservation at Joe Allen. Pigalle: 790 Eighth Ave. at W. 48th St. (Hell’s Kitchen); 212-489-2233 Paul Simon – Still Relevant After All These Years Paul Simon is an artist whose work I’ve always enjoyed but have taken for granted. He always seemed to be crooning in the background, providing a running soundtrack for a couple of generations, and giving us music that we’ve allowed into our lives and taken to our hearts…and yet, we sort-of filed it away on oldies or “Lite FM” radio. He recently completed a month-long residency at BAM that set that right and made us focus on Paul Simon, the prolific author of brilliantly crafted pop songs. His work was presented in separate installments in a collection called “Love in Hard Times: The Music of Paul Simon”, an event which became more than just a solo concert by allowing other artists to reinterpret his songs in their own style. The first series was “Songs from The Capeman”; the second installment was “Under African Skies” and featured music from Graceland and The Rhythm of the Saints; and the final installment was “American Tunes”, one I was fortunate enough to witness. The sold-out show brought together an eclectic group of artists who performed some of Simon’s most beloved songs from the 60’s and 70’s. There were moments where we stood up and sang along, followed by more pointed moments of chills-inducing beauty. The Roches opened the show with “American Tune” and their tight, giddy harmonies soared with “Cecilia”. Paul Simon himself followed with laid-back versions of “50 Ways to Leave Your Lover” and “Mrs. Robinson”. Local Brooklyn-based group Grizzly Bear put an atmospheric, moody and modern spin on “Graceland” and “Mother & Child Reunion”. Olu Dara filtered “Slip Sliding Away” and “ Still Crazy After All These Years” through his soulful blues with a West African lilt. The big surprise of the evening was Josh Groban, a singer who I’d written-off as too sentimental and schmaltzy. Yet he was the perfect choice to sing “Bridge Over Troubled Water” with Simon on harmonies, and there was not a dry eye in the house (he started his set with “America”, followed by “Silent Eyes”). Amos Lee was one of the standout performers of the evening, singing “Peace Like a River”, “Homeward Bound” and “Nobody” with straightforward, gritty acoustic soul. Gillian Welch stole the show with shimmering, Appalachian-inflected blue grass versions of “Duncan”, “The Boxer” and “Sounds of Silence” with Simon joining on harmonies. Simon closed the show with “ Me & Julio”, “Train in the Distance”, “Only Living Boy in New York” (with The Roches on backing vocals) and put a lid on it all with a rousing version of “Late in the Evening”. In my mind, this evening was proof that Paul Simon is right up there with the rest of the towering songwriters in the great American 20th century songbook.
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  Tickets Still Available for Taste of the Nation; Jean-Jacques Rachou Cooks Classics for Free at Benoit (But You Have to Pay for Them)

  http://nymag.com/daily/food/2008/05/jeanjacques_rachou_cooks...
  150 days ago in Grub Street: New York Magazine's Food and Restaurant Blog · Authority: 803

  Tickets Still Available for Taste of the Nation; Jean-Jacques Rachou Cooks Classics for Free at Benoit (But You Have to Pay for Them) Midtown West: Alain Ducasse lets septuagenarian chef Jean-Jacques Rachou (who owned La Côte Basque, which once occupied the Benoit space) cook the quenelles de brochet (classic pike dumplings) and cassoulet served at Benoit. He does this for free from 9 a.m. to noon. [Diner's Journal/NYT] Share Our Strength's Taste of the Nation event still has tickets available; visit the event site to get in on tomorrow's huge tasting. [Grub Street] Nolita: Small, quality bar the Randolph might be opening up its basement to drinkers. [Down by the Hipster] Red Hook: The Pioneer Inn, which was shuttered on Van Brunt Street, has changed hands and will reopen as the Brooklyn Ice House. The 360 space isn't so fortunate: Since the owner "cracked," the spot's "for rent. Still looks like 360 inside. But there's a new message, emblazoned on a t-shirt, hanging in the window: 'Stop and Think.' Stop and think about what? About renting the place?...About life?" [Lost City] West Village: The new "Mr. Skewer (at 43 West 14th Street) has about as much in common with a Brazilian churrascaria as its neighbor Quizno’s does," but the chorizo plate is pretty tasty. [Gothamist] The Rusty Knot has pros (like the space) and cons (sugary cocktails). [Bottomless Dish/Citysearch] More: Neighborhood Watch »360, alain ducasse, benoit, brooklyn ice house, jean-jacques rachou, midtown west, mr. skewer, nolita, pioneer inn, red hook, rusty knot, the randolph, west village Add a Comment 1 Comment | Add Yours See All Comments | Add Yours Email Print
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  Giving the Old Man Meaning: Nick Fox reports on this endearing...

  http://eater.com/archives/2008/05/giving_the_old.php
  150 days ago in Eater : The New York City Restaurant, Bar, and Nightlife Blog · Authority: 542

  Nick Fox reports on this endearing little tidbit of news coming from Benoit kitchen: Ducasse has kept on the former owner and chef of La Côte Basque (the restaurant that previously occupied the space) to make "quenelles de brochet (classic pike dumplings) and cassoulet." [Diner's Journal]

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